For more than 200 years, France was at the centre of western culinary tradition, but this was changing in the past few decades. Although French cuisine was listed as the world’s “intangible cultural heritage” by UNESCO in 2010, the French restaurant “had become a museum piece, and a parody of itself.”
The French still take great pride in their
cuisine, but it has been increasingly codified and trapped in its own history.
This article chronicles the rise and fall of French cuisine in the past two
centuries. As the author noted, food is constantly evolving according to trend and
time. The question is how to manage tradition: what to keep and what to update?
Can a new school of traditionalists revive French cuisine’s former glories?